Investing a big stake of my budget in blocks, cement and fundi was a great idea. The house is coming up pretty quickly and the foundations -the toughest part together with the roof- have been completed yesterday. It’s very rewarding to actually see the walls being built day by day, block by block. Pole-Pole.
The first time I went to Kilifi was on the 21st of July, Saturday and while I was there I couldn’t stop thinking of how to settle in this village without being perceived as a tourist and not being accommodated in a Hotel or Guest House.I loved that place, that lifestyle and that culture.
Thomas favorite uncle is called Samson. He lives in Mombasa and in the weekends comes up to his village in Kilifi to stay with his family and to supervise the works on a water well that he is building for the community.
He speaks good English, not very fluent but we understand each other. “Water is life” he told me on that day: “this well is only 9 feet deep at the moment and we need to reach 40 to find water. Pole pole (slowly slowly)”. I knew the meaning of Pole pole in Swahili but I didn’t realize that it actually is a way of approaching life, problems, plans and ideas. It’s a powerful way of thinking, very humble but efficient that often goes along with the motto that Disney taught us all ‘Hakuna Matata’ – No Problems, No stress, Don’t worry amigo, It’s going to be alright…
It was my first encounter with the Mijikenda and with people whose lifestyle can be described as indigenous. It went pretty well, I gave some sweats to the children (a dozen) in Samson’s household, greeted the neighbors with my poor Swahili and eaten the most amazing fish with Ugali, tomatoes and onions.
(I’m allergic to tomatoes, other vegetables and some fruit but I keep eating bananas, mango and raw vegetables and it’s fine. My allergy is not really real and I need to find out why I feel sick eating fruits and veg in Europe).
Samson was the first relative I met and I think I passed the ‘favorite uncle test’ because straight after we went to meet Tom’s parents in Tezo. From the village near the beautiful creek where Samson lives we did a 30 minutes motorbike ride off road and finally reached the house were Tom was born and grew up. This area is known as Teso, on that day we took the road through the forest but it can be reached following the road along the coast going north for 7 kilometers.
Tom has a wonderful family, 9 sibilings, 3 nephews and loads of uncles and aunts. Fred and Grace, his parents, own a farm where he grows maize (mainly), tomatoes, sukuma, coconut trees (I counted 17), mango, mukunde, pili pili, mnavu, cundes, casorina trees and comasa trees. When the dry season kicks in he’s not able to feed the family from the shamba (farm) therefore he gets money selling coconuts for 8/10 shillings each. The thing that strikes me the most is how little they rely on the monetary system spending approximately 1 Euro per day and winning the bread cooperating with the community through an informal economy.
_____Fred, Grace, Tom and I_____
It took a while to figure out where I was and what was happening around me; after a walk around the shamba I was leaning on the walls of the house that Tom –pole pole- is building for his family. Up to this point my plan for the rest of the ‘holiday’ was to travel up north the coast to Lamu, go to the Masai Mara park (south of the region, almost Tanzania) to see the wild beast migration, go back to Nairobi, visit Lake Victoria, Kisumu and Eldoret and finally go back to Italy. After a quick summary of the expenses of the travel and with the hammering thought I had all day since I met Samson I said “What if we build the house? Me and you, I don’t need to go to Lamu…”.
That’s how it all started. I may have missed out a lot of really cool things but I have no regrets so far.
Grace calls me Mwanangu – my Son and when I’m introduced to people I’m always referred at as “Tom’s brother”. 🙂
I would like to say a special THANK YOU to Roberta and Raffaella. I have received your generous gift and bought a trip of blocks for the house. Everyone is really grateful and your initials are now written in the cement!